Winter sleeveless jacket for men – 1/2

For Christmas, I wanted to make a homemade present for my father-in-law. So I looked in my sewing books and in my stash to find out, what I could sew for him. As I had quilted grey fabric and white fleece, I decided to make a sleeveless jacket from the book Monsieur Couture pour homme by Maud Vadon.

As my father-in-law never really feels cold, I didn’t make the hoodie.

When I got ready to start this project, my little cat Rhapsody suddenly felt an irrepressible need to play. He started sliding on the tracing paper and eating it like a crazy kitten !

Sometimes, patience is key…  So I worked  slowly and used my pattern weights a lot to help everything stay in place while I was tracing the pattern pieces, despite all the running, jumping and rolling of the cat on my workspace. Then I cut the fabric during the cat’s nap, because scissors make him want to play, which is quite dangerous !

I also traced and cut the fleece and the collar pieces I had forgotten to cut.

First step for this jacket pattern : the front zips for the pockets. I interfaced the to front parts on the inside of the fabric and pinned the facing right side on right side. To put these pieces on the right place, you just have to use the marks given on the pattern.

Then, I used a rotary cutter to cut the slit for the zipper..

I turned the facing inside through this opening  and pressed it flat. I centered the zip in the slit and secured it with pins. I didn’t need a zipper foot to sew it, because I didn’t need to sew close to the zipper teeth. I just had to topstitch around the opening with an ordinary  sewing machine foot.

I got a little worried when I started sewing the inside of the pockets because I had never sewn such a type of pocket before. But the explanations in the book and especially the technicals drawings were just perfect to make everthing clear and easy !

First, you sew a pocket piece to the side of the zip and another pocket piece to the other side of the zip.

Then, you press the two pieces apart form the zip and you pin the third larger part of the pocket on them. You sew the pocket part together along the top and the bottom but you don’t sew them with the front piece of the jacket !

On each side of the pocket, you make a stitch line close to the edge from top to bottom to close the pocket and assemble it with the front piece.

Now we have two finished front weltpockets !

Then I begun to make the side pockets. I started with the welt by folding the welt rectangles on themselves and sewing the small sides. Then I turned them inside out, hold them in place with my sewing weights and pressed them.

I placed a welt on the side edge of a front piece and laid a pocket piece on top of them. I made a stitchline along the edge with a seam allowance of 7mm (the allowance I had chosen at the beginning) to assemble these three pieces together.

I placed another pocket piece on the side piece of the jacket and sewed them together. Then I was ready to sew the front piece and the side piece together. It’s important to have drawn all the notches and marks from the pattern on the fabrics to be able to sew the pocket correctly. You then just have to sew straight lines … which is not so easy with slippery bulky fabric. So my stichlines are not as straight as I would have liked it …

Then, I just had to sew the welt on the side of the jacket, but the cat wasn’t napping anymore. He wanted to have cuddles and to play with the needle of the sewing machine, so it made this simple step quite long and uneasy. As expected, the stitchlines are crooked, which is a bummer …

Now I’m finished with the more difficult steps, I’m ready to assemble the jacket with its lining.

Thank you for coming in the B&r studio today!

See you soon,

Didine